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Essaouira – The Little Atlantic Star

by JC Aquino

Written in front of the town police station, facing the glistening Moroccan shore that looks as if it is flowing in the form of pristine liquid platinum. Where the chattering that you can hear is actually the sound of seagulls talking about their lunch. Of the children playing on the beach as the low tide expands its reach further. Where the clouds are like feathery wisps that blend with the bright blue sky.

During my trip to Marrakech, the Red City where I had my first ever Hot Air Balloon experience, our pilot asked me where I would be going next. I told him I am considering a day tour to Essaouira because I’ve been hearing a lot of great things about the place, considering that it is one of the smallest port cities of Morocco. Essaouira, which was previously known as Mogador, is a port city located between Casablanca and the more popular Agadir.

The road distance between Marrakech and Essaouira is approximately 200 kilometers, and depending on the driving speed of your shuttle (there are a lot of shuttles available in Marrakech, often in the form of vans or Grand Taxis), it will take about two and a half hours. You will pass through undulating hills that vary in color from terra cotta to light green depending on the season. There are some stretches that look like the Martian surface because of the reddish hue of the earth that contrasts with the clear blue sky.

We had a quick stopover to take some photos with the goats resting on the branches of an Argan tree. The Argan tree is one of the unique plants that can only be found in Morocco, and it has been one of the citizens’ primary sources of livelihood, as it produces Argan oil, which is often referred to as “liquid gold.”

Several hours later, we reached our destination. One thing that struck me about Essaouira is that it looks like a fishing village from an online game — a fishing village with fortresses and brick walls, as well as pathways that lead to a long line of merchants selling a wide variety of items, from leather goods to ornate souvenirs, to a great selection of Moroccan cuisine, to of course, Argan oil. The atmosphere is very simple, and you can really feel the historical richness of the place. During the time I went here, I was informed that I should wear clothes to keep me warm because in general, Essaouira is colder than Marrakech because of the Atlantic breeze. However, when I reached the place, it was way hotter than I expected, and my sweater betrayed me as I almost melted away.

Essaouira, in my humble opinion, is one of the most picturesque places I’ve ever visited — picturesque in a sense that there is always something in every corner that tells a story. For a solo traveler, this will not be an intimidating destination because it is very inviting, and the people are warm and accommodating.

There are times that the language barrier impedes a great conversation, but the message still manages to come across. I can still laugh about my experience when a local was laughing at me because I was too busy dodging seagulls that keep on dropping “bombs,” and he helped me find a great restaurant for a late lunch. That peaceful stroll around the city while watching people, whether locals or foreign tourists, was a very immersive experience — it made me feel that I belonged right there and then. Even if there were very few Asians in this city during the day I was there (most of the tourists were Europeans, mainly Italians and Spaniards), they were actually surprised how I ended up there.

This Little Atlantic Star will always be one of my sentimental favorites. Morocco gave me my first solo travel experience that spanned over a week. And Essaouira, through a simple daytour, gave me a deeper perspective on what traveling is all about.

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